Venice, Italy
“I frequently stand still a moment to survey, as it were, the heights I have already won. With much delight I look back to Venice, that grand creation that sprang out of the bosom of the seas, like Minerva out of the head of Jupiter. ” - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
The Queen of the Adriatic has captivated the romantic dreams of visitors for centuries, and it is indeed with delight we look back at our ramblings through the cramped, dark streets of that floating city.
118 islands constitute the majority of what the common imagination conjures when it thinks of Venice. In addition to the grouping of small masses of land that make up the old city, there are many more islands in the Venetian Lagoon plus a mainland portion. Most people fail to think of the mainland when they think of Venice, but it is still quite important, if not as romantic.
As far back as 810 Venice was the capital of the Republic of Venice, although people lived in the area of the Lagoon far further back than that. Playing its part in European history, Venice and its influence can be seen through the Middle Ages, the Crusades, the Renaissance, and the conquests of Napoleon, when the Republic of Venice met its end in 1797. Later a part of the Kingdom of Italy, and now just Italy, Venice has retained its splendor, which is now open to the world.
The winged lion, symbol of the city of Venice and not to be confused with a griffin, can be spied throughout the city. As statues, on windows, the flags of the city’s soccer team, and all manner of other goods, the lion has been the mascot and representative icon of the people of Venice since at least the 12th century AD.
Where to Go and What to Do
The Grand Canal is the largest waterway through Venice, and we start there because whether you arrive by car, bus, or train, the Grand Canal is only a short walk away when you disembark. Lining this part engineering wonder, part natural, winding watercourse are massive structures. Along the entire course of the thoroughfare of Venice are beautiful buildings that house the residents and businesses of the city. Lacking the space to spread outward it was necessary in the past to build up.
As a natural progression from the Great Canal, we move to how to cross it! Boat and gondola traffic is of course popular in Venice, but walking trumps all other modes of transportation. The Rialto Bridge is the largest and busiest crossing over the Grand Canal and therefore in Venice, due in part to its size and in part to the numerous shops on it. It is busy at all times of the day and is a popular tourist destination and crossing for residents.
Never being far from water we move next to a particular business that usually separates itself from any kind of moisture. Librería Acqua Alta (High Water Bookstore) is a bookstore that has had a problem with rising water levels in Venice, resulting in soggy books and shelves. Taking lemons and making lemonade (Or Spritz! We’ll talk about that shortly), this special bookstore has begun storing its goods in crates, bathtubs, and even a gondola!
They’ve gone so far as to make their non sellable items into stairs and artwork for people to enjoy on their visit. As a bonus to animal lovers, there are at least several cats that move freely in and out of the store.
Most of the books at the shop are in Italian but there are enough in English and other languages to browse successfully. There are also trinkets, calendars, and games to look through. The combined novelty of the store itself and the chance to shop some books make this a must on any avid reader’s itinerary.
The Bridge of Sighs is a bridge, or enclosed walkway, over the canal separating a jail from the Doge’s Palace. Encased in limestone, it is not the only enclosed bridge in Venice, but it is the most famous, or infamous. The name of the Bridge of Sighs is derived from the prisoners who were taken over it, who would, according to the stories, sigh at their last glimpse of beautiful Venice before descending to their cells.
La Biennale is a name you will see on signs and posters, especially near the Giardini delle Biennale, a park known for its art. La Biennale is an organization in Venice that promotes the arts and holds annual exhibitions as well as other community minded events in numerous disciplines. If you’re an avid student of art, dance, or cinema you may want to check them out. They also have grounds and buildings ancillary to the Arsenal.
The Venetian Arsenal is not a tourist destination in the traditional sense, though it is fascinating and interesting in a historical, naval, and even a business sense. A massive amount of space was given over to the construction of ships, but rather than the traditional method of a working crew building one ship at a time, a form of the later assembly line method was used. Different areas of the Arsenal were responsible for churning out specific parts of ships, decreasing the amount of time it took to manufacture an entire ship. It was boasted that the Arsenal could assemble a ship entirely, from nothing to finished product, in a single day. For a world devoid of any power not derived from man or beast, that is mighty feat indeed.
Caffè Florian is more than a coffee shop, it is an experience. One of the classiest places in Venice, the Florian is the oldest coffee house in Italy and one of the oldest in the world, having been founded in 1720. You can expect white glove service here, literally, and you can also expect to feel very fancy. For a price. Check the menu at the door coffee lovers, the spirit may be willing but the wallet is weak.
The area comprising the Arsenal was made up of both land and water, and also technically included a forest on the mainland to provide the timber for ships. The Arsenal proper was an open secret. Obviously the mighty fleet of Venice came from the Arsenal, but the compound was, and still is, walled off and off limits to anyone not affiliated with it. The Venetians were so careful about their shipbuilding secrets that foreign visitors were sometimes not allowed to view the city from the Campanile (St. Marks Bell Tower), for fear that they would spy out the Arsenal’s secrets and Venice’s naval strength, or weaknesses.
The Arsenal today is still a naval installation, though parts of it are viewable by the public. There is a museum.
The Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square, has been the political, social, and historical center of Venice for centuries. The large, open space is paved in appealing patterns and lined with the largest and most famous buildings in Venice, including St. Mark’s Basilica, from which the square takes its name. This unique church marks one end of the Piazza along with the Doge’s Palace, to which it is attached.
Just across from this duet of Doge and Divinity is the Campanile, the watchtower that is the tallest building in Venice and which offers the best view in town. Following the buildings around the edge of the open area you will find shops and cafés, including Caffè Florian.
St. Marks Square
Opposite the Campanile and across the face of the Cathedral is St. Mark’s Clocktower, or Torre dell'Orologio. Constructed so as to face the lagoon for the purpose of displaying the wealth of the Republic, the clocktower is classic Venice. Combining Christian and Eastern themes the clock features Roman numerals on blue panels that display the time in addition to the actual clock face, which depicts the sun, moon, and signs of the zodiac.
Much like a coocoo clock, St. Mark’s Clocktower features a pop out display of an angel leading the 3 Magi, though they only come out twice per year, on Epiphany and Ascension Day.
St. Mark’s Basilica itself is a beautiful, albeit confused, church in the Piazza San Marco on the south side of the main Venetian grouping of islands. It is constructed in several masterfully blended styles, and features unique and eye catching features, including many structural and adorning pieces from the Sack of Constantinople in the Fourth Crusade. Venice, a part of the Crusades, took part in the Sack of the Byzantine capital and brought home spoils of war that include the four bronze horses that still mark the entrance.
A church in some shape or another has stood on the same spot since 829, although the initial models were more subdued. Over the years the various places of worship have been damaged, burned, and rebuilt until the version that more or less comes through the ages to us today was completed just before the year 1200. That version was also simplistic however, and further adornments and adjustments have been made since.
Inside is a mix of artistic direction that incorporates Byzantine, Gothic, Islamic, and other styles in a gilded panoply of divine portrayal. The result both inside and out is a unique and beautiful building that defies being defined by a single school of architecture. Often it is tempting to describe places and events through a single lens, but here it is not possible. The exterior especially is somewhat confused by the contrasting styles, lacking a cohesive and singular identity. It is a beautiful church for all of the chaos.
St. Mark’s is attached to another excellent piece of Venetian construction, the Doge’s Palace. Doge was the title of the leader of the Venetian Republic, and is specific to Venice and Genoa, though a cognate in English could be considered to be Duke. Although there had been an official palace in use since 810 AD, construction for the current building on its current site was begun in 1340, with further renovations and alterations made in the following decades and centuries. Multiple times fire was the cause of some of the necessary reconstruction, with changes being made in the artistic style of Italian architecture.
The Palace is a large building and holds apartments that were set aside for the Doge’s personal use as well as many rooms for the use of the state. Dining and banquet halls, meeting rooms, audience chambers, and even cells for prisoners comprise the balance of the space not given over to more mundane tasks, such as kitchens and closets.
The Bridge of Sighs, mentioned above, was constructed to connect the Palace to expanded prison cells across the canal. Although not particularly breathtaking or dramatic in its presentation, the Doge’s Palace is certainly beautiful and unique. It has a pink hue that we have never seen in another building made of stone. There are many buildings around the world that have taken their inspiration from the Doge’s Palace, and we recommend that even if you do not pay to enter the museum inside, you at least journey to St. Mark’s Square to view the outside.
The Campanile, or St. Mark’s Bell Tower, is just what it says it is. Located just across the square from the main building of St. Mark’s Cathedral the bell tower is a great way to view the city of Venice. The tallest point on the islands, it offers a 360 degree view that cannot be beat anywhere else in the city. There is an elevator that takes visitors up and down, so it is accessible to everyone.
Though the current tower was completed in 1912 after the previous building fell down in 1902, the Campanile has a long history on this same spot. Originally a watchtower it has undergone many variations since its inception, probably sometime after the year 900 AD. It has been a constant in the lives of all Venetians and was even the location of the studies of Galileo himself.
Spritz. A definitively Italian drink, spritz can come in a variety of flavors but is at its core Prosecco, bitters, and soda water. Popular flavors include Select, Campari, and Aperol. In Venice if they serve alcohol, they serve spritz, and they may well sell spritz merchandise. It’s kind of a big deal here, and you will see it advertised in other Italian cities as well. It’s not bad and it is definitely worth trying at least once.
Food
Tapas are popular around the world but in Venice they’re called Cicchetti. Don’t let any pedants tell you they’re different. Just a rose by another name. If you’re in the mood for small plates or side dishes, traditionally around the middle of the day, then look for this word in the cafe window or on the chalkboard outside.
If you feel the sea breeze and think you’re in the right place for some seafood, you would be correct. There are many restaurants lining the canals and the lagoon that offer succulent seafood of all kinds. We suggest branching out and trying some Spaghetti Nero.
How could we possibly talk about an Italian city without talking about gelato? We can’t! Grab some traditional ice cream from a local shop while you’re here. We found that although the gelato served out of the covered tins was of better quality, we often were served larger portions of the type that was piled high for everyone to see. Of course, you might like either better than the other, so the only thing to do is to try them both.
Caffè La Serra is a surprising, elegant, and well hidden cafe/flower shop combo that we stumbled across completely by accident while exploring Centro Storico. The cafe was built in 1849 and was originally built as both a showpiece and greenhouse for palm trees and other things to be used for the Art Exhibition in that year.
For most of its life the greenhouse was just that, a greenhouse. But in 2006 it was converted into its current state, a unique and enjoyable cafe. The menu is small, but the coffee and food are good. There are tables outside and artwork on the lawn, and inside is cozy and feels comfortable. There is a guitar, a piano, and of course the plants and working space for the greenhouse side of the business.
Sport
Venice may be famous for its islands and canals but the waterways won’t stop soccer loving Italians from cheering on one of their favorite sports. Venezia FC play on the eastern tip of Centro Storico, the island in the Venetian Lagoon people most associate with Venice. Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo is where the team plies its trade, and they’re not half bad. Tickets aren’t expensive and we highly recommend catching a home game if you’re in town.
We’ll be honest, there is not a lot of other sport going on in Venice. You won’t be coming here to catch a sporting event though, so we don’t consider that much of a mark against it.
How to Get Around Venice
Mainland Venice, or Marghera and the surrounding areas, operate in the same fashion as any other city. The islands in the lagoon are a different story. You can reach the islands of Venice by car, bus, train, or boat. All car traffic is going to cross the lagoon on SR11, or Via Della Libertà on the Bridge of Liberty (Ponte Della Libertà). The train travels alongside the highway on the way into Venice.
Once you arrive you will be on Tronchetto Island, and will need to park as there are no roads on the islands besides these. There are several parking lots, including an indoor parking lot, and you can expect to pay around 30 euros for 24 hours, though the different lots charge their own rates, so shop around. You can also reserve a spot ahead of time.
If you want to save some money, there are much cheaper parking lots in Mestre, on the mainland. You will have to take a bus, train, or boat to Venice and back.
If you follow the road to its conclusion, you will be in the Piazzale Roma. From here you can walk into the rest of Venice, including the train station Santa Lucia. Or you can opt to use the water taxi system.
Restrooms in Italy, and Europe at large, are likely to charge a fee upon entrance. It can be beneficial to plan your visits to the WC around your meal times, as many restaurants will have restrooms for patrons. If it is a more pressing matter, there will be signs posted to point you toward the public restrooms, will do indeed charge a fee of around 1 euro. We have included the official map here, but it is possible to use the map app on your phone to locate a restroom.
Click here for a map of our favorite places in Venice!