Dublin, Ireland
Dublin is the capital of the Republic of Ireland, one of two countries on the island of Ireland. The second country is Northern Ireland, which was created in 1921 under the Government of Ireland Act and is a part of the United Kingdom along with Wales, Scotland, and England. On the east coast of the Republic of Ireland, Dublin is a popular tourist destination in its own right in a country that boasts some of the most beautiful and scenic country in the world.
The Greater Dublin Area around the capital is home to some 2 million people, over 40% of the countries population. The largest city by far in terms of area, population, and available employment, Dublin is the place to be for city activities such as bar hopping, night life, dancing, clubbing, and associated activities. Due to its size and political status, as well as its location compared to its neighboring countries, it should be no surprise that the busiest and largest airport on the island is in Dublin.
Dublin Airport (DUB) is the 12th largest airport in Ireland and serves between 60,000 and 80,000 passengers per day. If you are visiting Ireland it is likely you will be arriving and departing from DUB. Other options on the island include Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, or the airports at Shannon and Cork, though those are much smaller.
Where to Go and What to Do
Here is a list of places to go, and things to do in Dublin. If you want to read more about them, continue reading below
1. Phoenix Park
2. Temple Bar
3. Brazen Head
4. Trinity College
5. St. Stephen’s Green
6. The Hungry Tree
(1) Phoenix Park is the largest enclosed park in Europe, open al day every day of the year, and offers a plethora of outdoor activities in the middle of the largest city in Ireland. The history of the park is long, with the land having been held at one point by Vikings, Knight’s Hospitaller, and the English Crown. The park is home to many interesting structures, including a cross built for the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1979, during which the Pope gave an open air sermon to the largest outdoor gathering in Irish history, to a crowd of one and a quarter million people.
There is another tower in the park known as the Wellington Monument, which is the tallest obelisk in Europe. This structure is in memorial of the victories of the Duke of Wellington, whom any good student will recognize from their history classes as the victorious commander of the Battle of Waterloo, over Napoleon Bonaparte. On this obelisk are four bronze plaques cast from cannon captured in that very same battle.
A building of some note on the grounds is the Deerfield Residence, formerly used as the home for the Irish Chief Secretary, and the Park’s Chief Bailiff. It is currently in use as the residence of the Ambassador to Ireland from the United States.
If you are visiting the park to get away from manmade structures and spend some time in nature, as much as you can while still being in Dublin, then you are in luck. While there is no strenuous hiking in the park, there are many miles of trails, paths, and roads for walking, biking, and running. While you walk the park, you are likely to see some of the 400+ deer that have been in residence since they were introduced to the park in the 1600s. Hunting is obviously illegal here, so these fallow deer are pretty familiar with people. We still suggest not interacting with them too closely, as they are still wild animals.
Far from being a temple, (2)Temple Bar is in fact home to quite a few bars, and pubs, as well as many other shops and establishments. Even the Irish Stock Exchange is located in this small and colorful neighborhood on the River Liffey. Most people don’t come here to bandy words about bonds though, they come for the vibrant, and frankly cliché, nightlife. If you’re looking for a night on the town, plenty of people, different pubs to hang out in, dancing, and all that kind of thing, then Temple Bar is your kind of place. You’ll hear pop music, pay tourist prices, and have a grand old time.
There is an actual Temple Bar Pub, but that one bar does not a Temple Bar make. There are plenty of other establishments to pop into.
On the topic of bars, Ireland’s oldest pub (a title which is as contested as one might think, being in Ireland) resides in Dublin, and has done so since 1754 in its present building, renovations notwithstanding. The (3)Brazen Head may have competitors for the oldest pub in whatever place, according to whatever criteria, its is definitely old, and a fixture in the community. Just off the river at the original permanent crossing in Dublin, The Brazen Head is a must visit for the pub connoisseur.
(4)Trinity College is another popular location to visit in downtown Dublin and is located immediately adjacent to Temple Bar. Study hard, party harder, that’s our motto. Often touted as the oldest university in Ireland, that is not completely true. It is the oldest extant university, but was predated by the now defunct Medieval University of Dublin.
At Trinity you’ll find one of the most popular exhibits in the city, a real historical treat, the Book of Kells. This illuminated manuscript depicts the four Gospels as well as other material in hand painted and hand written pages. While it is only possible to see the Book of Kells two pages at a time, and for a fee (unless you are a student, in which case its free), it is a fantastic chance to see one of the greatest treasures in Ireland. The book dates back to 800 AD, according to some scholars, and is impressive in its scope and detail.
Just south of the college is (5)St. Stephen’s Green, one of the many parks in Dublin and one of the better manicured and enjoyable. Artwork, water features, and animal life decorate the greenspace, and it is an exceedingly pleasant place to pass the time, meet friends, or enjoy a stroll and a coffee. If you’re looking to get away from the city without leaving downtown, this is a good place to steal a few minutes.
(6)The Hungry Tree is a little more niche than our other suggestions, but it is fun and original, and we think its worth it. How often do you see a tree eating a bench? Not even Ents do that. On the grounds of King’s Inn, a law school east of Phoenix park and north of the river, there is a London plane tree that has been slowly devouring a metal bench for years. Left to its own devices, the tree has been supplementing its iron intake with a vengeance and has been described as “…mediocre in appearance…” We think its beautiful.
(7)The National Botanic Gardens are free and large. Well manicured and maintained, they are walkable and beautiful in equal measure, featuring artistry both natural and manmade. Aside from the widely varying plants on the grounds, the greenhouses themselves are a sight to behold. A lovely cream in color, they were originally made with wrought iron and glass, but have been recently restored and updated with steel. They have lost little in the way of their cozy appearance with the restorations though, and added a lovely feel to the grounds.
There are many different greenhouses on sight offering a panoply of plants from all over the world. Agricultural crops, Japanese garden, the Palm House, and cacti are some of the varieties you will find wandering through the houses and paths. Parking at the Gardens cost a few euro, and is more than reasonable for anywhere near downtown Dublin. The Gardens are also reachable by foot or bike, and are just off of the bus line.
We would be remiss if we wrote about Dublin and neglected to mention Guinness, and its main presence in Dublin for tourists, the (8)Guinness Storehouse. The powerhouse brand of the Irish, known the world over, calls this city home, and many millions of pints originate in the heart of Dublin. With Irish barley and water from the Wicklow Mountains the brew is made, and shipped all over the globe. Not that all of it comes from the Emerald Isle; there are 49 Guinness breweries around the world.
At St. James Gate in Dublin you can visit the old Guinness brewery and take a tour through the Guinness Experience. Called St. James Gate because there was indeed a gate there, where the city walls once stood, this location was the first place the beer was brewed, and though no longer the brewery it once was, it still serves as the educational and experiential center for Guinness.
The Guinness Experience takes several forms, costing different amounts depending on what you’d like to do, and you can read about it by following the link. Take note though that the best view of the city can be had from the rooftop, 360 degree, bar at the end of the Experience.
(9)Jameson is another alcoholic wonder of Irish origin founded in Dublin and calling it home. The storied whiskey is now distilled in Cork rather than Dublin, but much like Guinness the original building is used for tours. There are also several types of tours to take, and you can leave with your own bottle of whiskey if you so choose.
On a more sober note, the (10)Famine Memorial on Custom House Quay, on the north bank of the river and just east of Temple Bar, is a stark reminder of the harsh past that lurks behind the twinkling, green veneer that can be popular Ireland. Remembering the Great Famine of the mid 1800s, the gaunt, metal statues illustrate the pain and suffering endured by many millions.
The Great Famine, or the Irish Potato Famine, is an imperative part of Irish history that initiated a great many deaths and emigrations. The population of Ireland was severely reduced during these years, and did not recover to pre-Famine numbers until the 2000s. Along with religion, the Potato Famine and it’s management by the English have been causes of great strife between the two nations, and it is important to understand these issues if you have an interest in Irish history.
There are two medieval cathedrals in Dublin, and the oldest of the two is (11)Christ Church Cathedral. While there is a respectable list of cities the world over with more than one cathedral, it is rare enough to mention, and you should certainly take advantage of the opportunity. Only about half a mile from Trinity College, this is another easy landmark to check off your list. Originally built in the early 1,000s, it has undergone extensive expansions, repairs, and renovations in the millennium since its inception.
Photo by Kathleen Spangler
Less than half a mile from Christ Church Cathedral is (2)St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the second of the city’s medieval cathedrals. Founded in 1191, it isn’t that much younger than its counterpart, and is just as impressive with its Gothic architecture and stone construction. St. Patrick’s serves as the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland.
How to Get There, & How to Get Around
Staying in Dublin is similar to any other large, European city. The mostly used language is English, but you will hear the occasional Gaeilge, or Irish Gaelic, and will certainly see it on road signs and other signs throughout the city. If you travel outside of Dublin, this will remain true, and in some parts of the country like the Aran Islands, Irish may be spoken more than English.
There are many major, international hotel brands available as well as numerous Irish brands and local hotels. Make sure you choose accommodations that compliment your choice of travel arrangements, either by offering free parking or being relatively close to public transportation.
Looking for s place to stay in Dublin? Here is a handy map to help in your search.
If you are staying in the city limits, getting around Dublin is business as usual for any large city. Trains, trams, buses, and taxis round out the faster modes of transportation. Walking and cycling are also options because most tourist destinations and activities are pretty close to one another and downtown. If you are leaving Dublin for more exotic environs, we suggest renting a car. There are some unusual caveats involved with renting a car in Ireland though.
Renting and Driving a Car in Ireland
Driving in Ireland is different from most of the rest of the world because you will be driving on the left side of the road as opposed to the right. You will also be driving on the right side of the car, and most cars will be manual transmission. If you are ok with these basic differences, you should be good renting a car. It is possible to rent an automatic transmission, but there will be fewer cars to choose from and it may cost a little bit more.
If you’ve adjusted to these issues, get ready for a couple more. Dublin itself is fairly congested, and you may spend some time in traffic, and we suggest avoiding the M50, the ring road around Dublin that is also a toll road. As far as tolls go, talk to your rental agency about them beforehand. They may have automatic tolls set up for a flat rate, or they may simply charge you for any tolls incurred. You don’t want to be charged twice, so make sure you know what to do before you drive off, or simply avoid tolls altogether. If you’re headed off into the country, there will be many roads off of the main highways without shoulders, or one lane tracks with little pull-offs every so often to allow cars coming the other way to pass.
Knowing all that is important to understand why the rental car insurance you usually enjoy with your credit card is no good in Ireland. There are almost no credit cards that cover car rentals in the Republic of Ireland anymore. That being the case, it is legally required that you purchase Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) insurance at the time of your rental. Usually you go through the motions and the rental agency tries to upsell their insurance, and usually you do not actually need it. They may still try to upsell you, but you do actually have to purchase the basic insurance or you won’t be able to leave with a car. Hand in hand with the insurance, there will be a larger than usual deposit required, depending on the level of insurance that you select, possibly in the area of $2,000-$3,000. This is normal and you should not be alarmed.
If you are seeing wild variations in the price of similar rental cars, it may be that some agencies are including the price of the insurance in your quote. Other than these differences, the process of renting a car is the same as any other country.
As far as actually driving in the country, be prepared for more roundabouts than you are used to. Even after you become used to driving on the wrong side of the road, a common mistake is looking the wrong way at roundabouts, because that’s what we are used to. The same applies to looking over your right shoulder for the rearview mirror. The only other major difference from many other countries is that there are no turns on a red light, not even onto one way streets. Red means stop and that’s that.
Parking in Dublin is rather expensive, and the closer you are to downtown, the more expensive it gets. If you find a good deal anywhere within walking distance of your planned stops, just stay there and walk it out. When you do park in a parking garage, it is usually the case that you pay at a kiosk at the pedestrian entrance before you get back in your car, rather than paying at the exit while in your vehicle. This does cut down on the congestion at the exit, but can be confusing at first.
To and From Dublin Airport
If you’re flying into Dublin, don’t bother looking for a train, tram, or metro at the airport; there isn’t one. You can rent a car, take a bus, bike, walk, or hail a taxi. There are plenty of car rental agencies at and near the airport. Since we’ve covered driving a car above, we will move onto some other options.
Buses are a great option in Ireland and operate just like buses in every other country. There will be several lines ending at and near the airport, so check the bus map and schedule just like anywhere else. Buses, or coaches, are a common way to traverse the country as well so if you’re looking for an inexpensive way to get out of town and don’t want to rent a car, this might be the way to go.
Ride hailing is another great option to get around town, or just from the airport to your hotel. Uber and Lyft will be familiar options, and you will also be able to use FreeNow, a European lookalike that also offers bikes, scooters, and mopeds. Of course you always have the ever present and reliable taxi, of which there will be many.
One major obstacle for foreign travelers is the possibility of different electrical plugs. Electrical outlets are different in both Ireland and Northern Ireland than in mainland Europe and North America. In Ireland, the G type plug is used (three triangular pins), as opposed to the A (two prong) and B (two prong and a circular ground) types used in the US, or the C and E (two round pins, E has a ground) types used in France.
If you’re coming from anywhere not using a G type outlet, you WILL NEED an adapter to charge your devices from a wall outlet. Your hotel and your car, if you’re making those traveling choices, may have USB ports available for charging, but plan ahead. The appropriate charger can be found at the airport for a premium, but can also be found on Amazon or at Best Buy quite easily.
