Bocas del Toro, Panama

Where to Go and What to Do

When people say Bocas del Toro they generally mean the island of Colon, as that is where the city of Bocas del Toro and the airport are. The city name is generally shortened to Bocas Town, for everyday use. Properly speaking Bocas del Toro is the name of a province of Panama with an area of over 3,000 square kilometers, including parts of the mainland and many islands. Flights land on the island from Panama City, Changuinola, and Costa Rica, bringing tourists to see the diverse wildlife, take in the gentle waters, and sample quiet island living.

Starfish Beach

The first destination on many lists is Starfish Beach, on the northwest coast of Colon. Starfish Beach is home to many sea stars, mostly of the Red Cushion (oreaster reticulatus) variety, and many other marine creatures from pelicans to lobsters. To get to the beach you can hire a boat, take the bus from Bocas Town, or hire a taxi. You can also walk or ride a bike but that takes quite a long time, so unless you are fit enough and have the time, we advise against it. The road is mostly dirt and rough going, taking 30-40 minutes by car.

However you travel you are going to eventually arrive at Playa Boca del Drago, and this is where the road ends. There is a restaurant here called Yarisnori, and there are places to stay the night, but to get to Starfish Beach you’re going to need to take a quick boat trip. For a dollar or two per person boats wait here to take tourists over, or you can walk along a dirt path through the overgrowth. The path option is through some brush and you will not regret some quiet time walking through the jungle next to the water, taking in the scenery and what wildlife theres is to be seen

The walk only takes about 15 minutes and is not arduous. The location itself offers about half a mile of sand beach and myriad spots to sit and eat, tan, and play volleyball. Again, this is simple island living so do not expect 5-star hotel service or accommodations. Depending on when you arrive a beach chair or the use of the “bathroom” may cost you a dollar or two. We suggest arriving early and setting up at your place of choice, because it will start to become busy as the sun comes out and the day wears on. We recommend arriving before 10 am, preferably earlier to get some quality time in the water and some quiet time with the sea stars.

The main attraction, the stars of the show, are the sea stars. Not star fish, they are called sea stars, as we have been told many, many times. Varying in size the sea stars are easily visible in the shallow water and are the primary reason you should arrive early. As the water becomes busier the sea stars will move farther from shore and it will be harder to find them. Remember that this is their home and it is important to leave them alone as much as possible. DO NOT TOUCH the sea stars. Picking them up can tear or rip off their “feet”, stop them from feeding, and even suffocate them when out of the water. Some of the sea stars can self-amputate and regeneration can take months or even years.

Be selective of sunscreen or other lotions you wear when visiting Starfish Beach. Some lotions are harmful to sea stars and other aquatic life, and you could be doing harm to them that you do not see. Make sure it says that it is “Reef Friendly”.

Boat Tours

The next activity you may be interested in is a boat tour. from the main islands out and about among the smaller bodies of land There are many boats leaving on tours each day, but they mostly go to the same locations, at the same time, and for roughly the same price. Shop around to find a good deal, or pick the first one you come across, they will be fairly close. Tours can last around 6 hours, but get details first. Boats will visit different locations each day. Do not pack a lot, but you will need to bring anything you want to drink, towels, because you WILL get wet, and any gear for taking pictures. The tour will afford you the opportunity to see dolphins, any number of sea birds like frigate birds and pelicans, and sea stars.

A common stop is a cruise through Dolphin Bay where you may be delighted to see dolphins cruising and even leaping out of the water through the wakes of the boats. Another stop is often to snorkel above some corral. The corral and sea life is wondrous, colorful, and varied, but if you are a beginner snorkeler you can expect to spend a long time on the first part of the learning curve. On most days there will be a meal stop at a restaurant on an island along the established route. The general rule is to order on the way to another location of interest, and eat on the way back.

Our furthest stop was way out to Caya Zapatilla #2, an uninhabited island roughly 15 miles from Bocas Town. The trip from the restaurant to the island was about 30-40 minutes each way and we spent two hours on the island. There were several other boat tours there at the same time, and the whole experience felt well organized and thought out by our Panamanian hosts. Zapatilla was a delightful stop and easy to walk around given the sandy path prepared ahead of time. We saw many beautiful displays of wildlife, from lizards to birds to hermit crabs.

When you return to the restaurant, be aware that they only accept cash. Signal is poor that far out, so cards are out of the question.

Our last stop before disembarking was another cruise along some unnamed groupings of mangroves, where we got to see more sea stars. Along our cruise we also got to see some pelicans and frigate birds roosting in the trees, and that was a real treat.

Beaches

There are several main beach areas on the island, beginning with Istmito, just north of the town proper. The beach is open to anyone but can be dirty. It is long and pleasant, and usually quiet.

Escondida is along the east coast and spreads almost 2 miles. There are many hotels, resorts, and other places to stay as well as resident’s homes along Escondida. Istmito and Escondida are the two largest, and in addition to Starfish Beach draw the lion’s share of tourists. There are plenty of small alcoves, tiny beaches, and accesses to the water around Colon, so exploring can yield some wonderful views and relaxing afternoons. Be courteous of the island residents and do not trespass.

How to Get Around

Getting around on the islands is a little different than a big city, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a breeze. You have the option of walking, renting a bike, taking a taxi, or taking the bus. If you’re in town, walking or renting a bike are preferable as it is always warm, and you’re most likely here for the scenery and island life. The urban area of Colon Island is not large and walking is very enjoyable. Even hopping to other islands is easy; the east side of the island is where ferries will take people to and from the other islands, and this is also where the boat tours will depart from.

If you are looking to travel any distance outside of the town we suggest taking the bus or a taxi, as calling the paths you will need to travel “roads” would be very generous indeed. Walk or bike if you wish but be aware that it will be time consuming and difficult at times, especially if the paths and roads are wet, which they often are.

Bus and taxi can be found at the town square, on the east side of the island. The bus runs regularly but check in advance so you’re not stuck waiting. From Bocas Town to Playa Boca del Drago cost $20, and takes a little over 40 minutes.

Money

Cash is important to have and the dual official currencies of Panama are the Balboa and the American dollar. There are a couple of ATMs, and many of the stores will take Visa and Mastercard but there may be an additional fee. We did not see any stores that took American Express, so beware. Discover (follow the link to Discover’s website and see where it is accepted) is not accepted in the country of Panama. Some places do not take cards and the smaller shops are much less likely to, but Panama uses the dollar and the Balboa interchangeably. The two currencies are linked in value, so you can use them both and expect to get both back in change. There is no paper form of the Balboa, only coins. Don’t worry about having some extra Balboas in your pocket, you can always use them later. Cash is king on the islands.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of options, including tours and resorts, but none are very large nor are they very famous. We suggest finding something in Bocas Town, preferably in the more populated parts of town rather than something more remote, unless it is a hotel or resort. Many places will be available through Airbnb, Vrbo, or have their own websites.

Or, you can use the map below to find something! We get a little bit of your booking if you go through us, so we’re biased.