Puerto Rico

How to Get Around Puerto Rico

In this Travel Guide we’re talking Puerto Rico! We road-tripped this Caribbean island for 8 days, sampling the cities, small towns, mountains, beaches, islands, and open spaces across the territory. We loved every day here and are planning to return to the Island of Enchantment (Isla del Encanto). If you’re coming from the US, you are probably flying into San Juan, Ponce, or Aguadilla, one of the three international airports here; and if you are an American citizen, you do not need a passport, making this one of the most accessible Caribbean destinations for Americans.

Puerto Rico is an island that is a little bit American territory, a little bit Caribbean country, was a Spanish colony, and is now a whole thing of its own. Ask a Puerto Rican where they’re from (we did) and they’re much more likely to answer “Puerto Rico” than “America”. This spirit of independence and a feeling from the people that they are something sperate from the rest of the USA comes across pointedly, but not abruptly nor rudely. Many of our acquaintances during our stay had spent time in the mainland US or abroad but had come back, saying that PR felt more like home, that it suited them more. The physical disconnect from the rest of the US shows, as well as the political void, which was pronounced in that there was no mention of politics or governance at all, which was refreshing.

Our experience of the island showed us there’s a little something for everyone in Puerto Rico, and none of it is located too far from anything else. 3,500 square miles may sound like a lot, but a good highway system runs around the rectangular island, allowing for a trip like ours in even one day, if you were so inclined. From tip to tip, Puerto Rico is about 39 miles from north to south and 111 miles from east to west. We drove about 250 miles around the island, in about 15 hours, though there are many different routes you could take to elongate or shorten your trip.

In terms of the size of the rest of the United States, Puerto Rico would measure about 3 Rhode Islands, or about 1/3 of Hawaii’s land mass. With a population of just over 3 million people, PR has less than half of New York City’s 8.5 million people, and even fewer than NYC’s 3 rats per person.

Our visit took place in September, which is the hot season, meaning up to 90+ degrees Fahrenheit every day. It rained quite a few times and usually in the afternoon or evening. In the mountains afternoon rains are an almost everyday occurrence and later rains in the islands and coasts are commonplace as well.

This is an American territory so many of the same brands are present, just as in the mainland, like Wendy’s, McDonald’s, and Home Depot. There are also Latin American influences on consumer goods and all other facets of life, so if you go to the grocery store there will be a plethora of examples of both cultures present, making shopping experiences familiar and novel all at once.

Driving around the island is similar to driving in the United States but with a twist. Traffic signs and roadway markings are not always present or disappear when you need them. Lanes may end suddenly and merge with others without warning. Most traffic moves slower than on an American highway, and there may be some sizable speed bumps and potholes without warning, which explains the more subdued driving policy. Most drivers work in a more team oriented state of mind here, so don’t be overly aggressive. Letting people in, honking for signaling rather than in frustration, and coordinating are hallmarks of driving here.

When fueling up your vehicle, you will need to go inside the gas station to pay. There are no credit card readers on any of the pumps in Puerto Rico. Everything is cash or card inside the gas station. Thankfully, every type of credit card is accepted there. We did see quite a few EVs driving around, but though we kept a good eye out we did not see any charging stations. They do exist, but are centered mostly in the high density population areas and around the international airports, meaning San Juan, Ponce, and Aguadilla. Do not plan on driving into the interior with an EV without planning your route, or you may end up without a charge and no way to get one.

If you’re using Google Maps, or any internet product, know that some of the information you may be looking for is not going to be accurate, in that hours may be incorrect or stores may or may not be open when Google says. We ran into this a handful of times, but it wasn’t a huge issue. Likewise, Google Maps was difficult to use as the road names or exits were different on the actual roads than what Google maps showed, and not every exit showing an exit number on google maps had an exit number on the highway signs. Waze may be a better option. We did not try Apple Maps.

These issues with internet based information are endemic to Puerto Rico because of a lack of update, business and road closures, and the rural nature of much of the island. Hurricane Maria struck the island in 2017 and it has not yet fully recovered. The hurricane was the deadliest to hit Puerto Rico since 1899, causing nearly 3,000 deaths, damaging around 300,000 homes, and causing around $90 billion in damages. The effects of this disaster can still be seen today, though rebuilding efforts are ongoing.

Sales tax on the island is ostensibly 11.5%, but not on food items, so you may see restaurants or other shops advertising a lower rate with a sign in the window or front door. This tax rate is higher than some American states but lower than some metro areas, so it is what it is. If you’re a discerning shopper you can avoid the tourist traps and still find decent deals on food and consumer goods. Just shop where the locals shop. Cooking will save you a lot of money here; we actually found some of the foods we usually buy, like chicken, cheaper than at home. Many food items will be the same or cheaper than in the mainland US, with markets varying of course, and home cooked while traveling usually comes out cheaper than eating out.

Baseball is the sport of choice and is a big part of Puerto Rican culture and there are a lot of baseball diamonds and stadiums around, the same way you might see football fields and stadiums in the mainland US, in some areas. The passion for baseball can be seen around the Caribbean, in the Dominican Republic, Panama, Costa Rica, and here in Puerto Rico.

The people of the island are very kind, to a person. We did not meet a surly or disagreeable Puerto Rican on the whole island, nor did we meet with any form of road rage or distress, except our own ignorant misadventures. The people of Puerto Rico were exceedingly kind to us, and we are grateful for their generosity and hospitality.

Where to Go and What to Do

1. Old San Juan is the OG San Juan. The original city and the oldest section, it is built on a small peninsula and has many old buildings with historical significance, cobblestone streets, and an atmosphere of importance. As the most recognizable and unique section of the largest city on the island, Old San Juan is the place to be for visiting tourists. Even islanders that enjoy what city life can offer will tell you that there is no place better for entertainment and fun than San Juan and Old San Juan in particular. You will most likely be flying into or out of Luis Muñoz Marin International Airport, one of three international airports on Puerto Rico, so spending some time in SJ makes sense for most visitors. There are two major urban areas on PR, San Juan and Ponce, which is on the southern coast. But San Juan, more than Ponce, is where the life, and nightlife, of the island happens. Cafes, restaurants, clubs, bars, entertainment, and sport is focused very much on San Juan.

2. Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a fortress, or rather a series of fortifications, on the top of Old San Juan. They are massive, and having seen action a few times down the centuries, have proven their worth as a military installation. The fortress is well kept, not in disrepair, and has survived men and weather until today as a monument to the histories of Spain, England, America, and Puerto Rico. We very much enjoyed asking its walls and inner workings, and they offered great views of the surrounding ocean and city. The walls, moat, towers, and grounds were all built up in sections over several centuries, and are truly massive. Walking the fort’s several levels can take many hours, much of it in the sun ,so pack some sunscreen.

3. Castillo San Cristobal is a second fort in San Juan, within sight of El Morro, which was built to alleviate the danger presented by a force landing further east of the initial fort. Both forts are well maintained and large, and we enjoyed walking around. The cost to visit both was $10 total, which can be paid at either fort.

4. Mar Chiquita is one of the most unique beaches we have ever been to. The main beach is a concave shape with open water enclosed by rocks in all but a small, central section. This section allows the large ocean waves to crash into the confined space, making for a very strong push and pull. The actual beach is nice sand and trees, but just into the water there lurk rocks and a steep drop off, making this a less than family friendly beach. Adults would enjoy the crashing waves and the treading in high waters, but children would not be able to withstand some of the waves and accidents could occur.

5. Aguadilla is a surfing town, with other things going on. We stayed at a very nice Airbnb and went to survival beach and crashboat beach.

6. Survival Beach is not a swimming beach, but is good for surfing. There are lots of rock formations and it’s a good and strenuous hike up above the beach, though not for the faint of heart. We enjoyed this beach for the novelty, not being surfers, but we did see and speak to some surfers, of which we counted more than 20, who liked the large waves and remote nature of the beach. There were several dudes on the rocks recording their fellows, and most of the boarders were well out into the swell. We walked the trails for a bit, and enjoyed the rock formations, arches, and standing rocks that the waves had worn away.

There was plenty of wildlife around Survival Beach, due to the lack of people and rougher terrain. Crabs and birds were everywhere, which we loved.

7. Crashboat Beach is a very nice beach for families and swimming and sunbathing. The waves are calm and the beach is wide and there is some natural shade, but not a lot. You can rent chairs and umbrellas from some of the vendors who set up by the parking lot, and there is a very well done wheelchair ramp/pathway that leads up to the surf. With the ramp and the dock, this is one of the most accommodating beaches we have seen anywhere, with a simplistic and minimalistic air.

The dock here is somewhat famous, and is brightly painted, adding some gaiety and color to the beach. If you are looking for a place to hang out and soak up some sun, Crashboat Beach is a great choice.

8. Cabo Rojo has a lot to offer, and we did not see this southwester corner of the island much advertised before our trip. To our delight, we found pink salt flats, serving migratory avian life, hidden on the remote corner of Puerto Rico. There is an observation tower off of the road, which is free to ascend, that offers a lovely view of the surrounding area. There is a lighthouse where you would expect a lighthouse to be, on the coast, and it was very lovely to walk the trails around it and view the ocean from the high cliffs. Be wary of the height and the fickle nature of rock cliffs, as accidents have happened here before.

In addition to these destinations, there are some natural bridges and arches on the trails and along the coast, some marked on google maps and some existing quite peaceably unnoticed by the brurocracy of mapmaking. There are several nice beaches where sea turtles have been known to visit, and where manatees can be observed, though in September we were not fortunate enough to site any. Playa Sucia was our seaside point of interest on our day in Cabo Rojo and though it was a very nice beach it was also muddy and thick with seaweed on our visit. There was also a pungeant sulfur smell, which we observed at several beaches around the island, though here it was uncommonly strong.

10. El Yunque National Forest is a large, tropical rainforest just outside of San Juan, on the east side of the island. It is the only tropical rainforest in the National park network. On our visit there was a lot of construction on the roads and on many of the hiking trails and buildings. Recovery from hurricane Maria, now 6 years ago, is still ongoing. Damage to trails, buildings, and washed out roads have not yet been reconstructed or fixed.

The forest itself is lush with green vegetation and wild plant life, dense and verdant, and the trails are well kept and maintained for such a wet and volatile area. It rains every day in El Yunque, mostly in the afternoons, as in most mountainous regions, and flash floods can be sudden and dangerous. We were fortunate that several trails ending in pools, rivers, and waterfalls were open and we were able to swim and wade and enjoy the natural waterworks of the forest.

If you do end up in the water in El Yunque or in the ocean be sure not to have harmful sun tan lotions or bug sprays on. These will wash off and end up in the water, harming or killing local wildlife and coral. We did notice a decent amount of litter in certain places. On the whole it was cleaner than most forests and parks we have been to, but remember to take out what you bring in and keep the places you visit looking good and healthy for the next visitor.

The islands of 11. Vieques and 12. Culebra are just east of Puerto Rico. To get to the islands you must take a ferry or arrive by plane, with the ferry being much cheaper. It is even possible to take your vehicle on some of the ferries, but you will have to plan ahead for this and book the appropriate tickets on the appropriate ferry.

As of now adults are $4 and children are $2 for passage on the ferry, and parking at the parking lot for the ferry costs $15 for a day. You can purchase tickets ahead of time on the website, or you can purchase tickets at the ticket window at the ferry terminal. As we went in the hot, off-season (hurricane season), we did not see any time slots sold out. But in the busy season the ferries do sell out so plan ahead.

The cost to enter the beach was $2 per person, and the taxi from Dewey, the only town on the island and where the ferry from Ceiba lands, cost about $5 per person each way. While the waves at Flamenco Beach are not large enough for surfing, the calmness of the waters makes for absolutely fantastic snorkeling. There are rock and coral formations visible from the shore and a quick wade out with a mask can reveal some epic sights such as colorful fish, rays of various kinds, and various other sea creatures.

14. Last, but certainly not least, are not one, but three locations spread across Puerto Rico. The Bioluminescent Bays at Mosquito Bay, Parguera, and Fajardo. There are actually quite a few bioluminescent waters in the world, though there are conflicting counts on the internet. We stopped counting at 20 of what we believe to be verifiable and credible places. There are definitely 3 such glowing waters in Puerto Rico though, and that is our focus.

A bioluminescent occurrence in the water is usually characterized by warm, calm waters and the presence of an organism, like algae or plankton, that when disturbed reacts with an expenditure of energy, manifesting as light. In other words, disturbing the water where the tiny creatures are causes them to light up briefly.

The Mosquito Bay location is the most famous and most popular, and is located on Vieques, making it somewhat difficult to get to; you will need to take a plane or ferry to the island, you will need transportation to get to the bay, and you will obviously need to go at night to observe the luminescence at its most vibrant. That means you will need to find a place to stay on Vieques.

There are tours offered at each of these locations, with prices around $60 per person. This generally includes a ride, a guide, and a canoe or kayak to go out onto the water and paddle through the bay, soaking in the wonderful experience out in the middle of it.

Visiting the other two bio bays is easier, although the location in Fajardo is not as pronounced or bright. The bay in Parguera also has tours available, or you could drive to it and see it for yourself. Be careful, as the bay connects to the ocean and sharks can be present, and to actually see the water (organisms) light up it must by physically disturbed.

There are many more places to go and things to see in Puerto Rico than are written here, but these are the things we enjoyed the most and think you will enjoy too.