Rome, Italy
Rome, the Eternal City. Ancient, historic, mysterious, but at the same time world famous. A remnant of one of the most influential and extensive empires in history, Rome has had staying power beyond the ability of most countries, let alone cities.
Rome has been continuously occupied for nearly 3,000 years adding credence, if not truth, to its boast of eternity. According to legend the city was founded by two brothers in 753 BC. Romulus and Remus may or may not have been later creations of a young nation yearning for an entertaining origin story, and 753 may or may not be the actual year that Rome was founded, but it is close enough to the truth that we need not quibble over the date.
Serving as the capital of a kingdom, then a republic, then an empire, it went through a long period of disuse by the powers of the world before eventually rising again to prominence. Today Rome is the capital of the nation of Italy, capital of the Lazio region, and most populous city in Italy with nearly 3 million people in the commune of Rome and nearly 4.5 million in the metro city area. It is also the third most populated city in the EU, so when you visit be prepared for a crowd.
Rome’s long history has left its mark, and the sheer volume of citizens only adds to the busy feel of one of the most visited cities in the world. It can certainly seem congested around the most popular tourist destinations, as many of them are near one another, at least by modern standards. When most of the ancient structures we flock to see today were built they were, for the most part, a decent distance apart on foot. Expect crowds in Rome; expectation will allow you to enjoy the experience much more.
The first Sunday of every month, many of the popular landmarks and museums are free for everyone. Every Sunday, most of Rome shuts down and many businesses are closed. There is far less going on except for sightseeing.
Where to Go and What to Do in Rome
So many things to do in Rome, so much history! Where do you start? Thankfully, many of the things on most people’s lists are fairly close to each other. First is a structure that should be near the top of everyone’s list, the Coliseum!
Ah, the Coliseum! A world treasure, an architectural marvel, and a place of profound sorrow. It served the Roman Empire as a place for celebration and entertainment, but though the entertainment was sometimes centered on storytelling and history, it was more often founded in pain and death.
The Coliseum was known as the Flavian Amphitheater by the generations after its completion in the mid-to-late 1st century AD. Work was begun and completed under the Emperors Vespasian and Titus, and the building is made of limestone and concrete. It is difficult to convey the amount amount of work necessary to complete such a project without the use of power tools or electricity, but it is important to bear in mind that much of the labor on this and most other Roman projects was completed by slaves, many of whom were captured in Rome’s many wars.
Seating up to, and at times probably exceeding, 80,000 spectators the Coliseum is considered to be one of the Wonders of the World. It still stands as the largest amphitheater ever made.
The Forum lies just west of the Coliseum, and though greatly diminished over the years is still an awe inspiring collection of monuments to the glory of Rome. No matter your opinion on the morality, politics, or place of the Roman Empire in history, you cannot deny their ability and scope in architecture and construction even after most of their efforts have been humbled by the ravages of man and time.
The arches of Titus and Domitian, several temples, and numerous houses and baths remain of the once densely built-up area beneath the Palatine Hill where much of the important political life of the capital was lived. Entry to the Forum and the Palatine is limited to ticket holders, so plan ahead.
The Circus Maximus
The Circus Maximus is a place of history and legend, where the Green and Blue charioteer factions would race, compete, and bet in delirium, where riots began and the mob would relish in the thrill of one of the largest spectator venues in the world, certainly in the ancient world. Today however, the Circus Maximus is little more than a sandy field and a dog park, which is too bad considering the relative lack of violence compared to the other major sports venue in Rome, the Coliseum.
The outline of the great racetrack still exists, as do the mounds where stadium seating once existed. The area is open to the public and there are a few ruins of later peoples on the site. There is nothing much left of the glory of this grand theater of sport, though it is pleasant to walk through and imagine how it would have been with 100,000 people cheering the races. It is located within easy walking distance of the Forum and Coliseum, so is worth a visit.
Trajan’s Column
Trajan’s Column is a tall spire carved from top to bottom with the continuous, linear story of the exploits of its namesake, the Emperor Trajan. The intricate carving is a monument to the stubborn insistence of Roman pride and glory, and if not artistic originality, then storytelling on a massive scale. You will rarely find a column of this type anywhere else in the world and it certainly speaks to the artistic skills of those who chiseled the story out of stone, one hammer blow at a time.
The Pantheon is one of our favorite buildings in the whole world. A masterwork of engineering, a marvel of construction, an epic scale for a time without anything but the power generated by man and beast, the Pantheon is awe inspiring. First commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, the firm right hand of the Emperor Augustus, the original building was destroyed by fire and the current iteration constructed during the reign of Emperor Hadrian. The exact date of completion is unclear, but immaterial for any but the dedicated historian.
A second impressive feature are the large pillars standing at the front of the edifice. 12 meters, or 39 feet tall and hewn from single pieces, these massive blocks of stone were quarried in Egypt. Moved hundreds of miles up the Nile, across the Mediterranean, up the Tiber River, and through Rome, it took a staggering amount of effort and ingenuity to maneuver and manipulate these 60 ton pillars into place.
The construction of the Pantheon is astounding, featuring the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built. As the Romans built upwards toward the top of the dome, they used lighter and lighter materials, lowering the stress and weight on the dome as it rose higher. It culminates in a circular opening which allows the sunlight in, as well as the rain. There are cleverly designed holes in the floor of the Pantheon that allow water to drain rather effectively when rain does come in.
Originally meant as a temple for the worship of the Roman gods, the Pantheon has been a Catholic Church since 609 AD. Named the Basilica of St Mary and the Martyrs, the new name has never really caught on in popular culture, and most people will not know where that is.
The Trevi Fountain
The Trevi Fountain is an 18th century Baroque Fountain in the Trevi district. It is always busy during the day, so if you are there without a standing room only crowd consider yourself lucky. The ubiquitous crowds of Rome will always flock to the most well known and popular destinations, and the Fountain is no exception. It is absolutely worth a trip, as the fountain is a massive architectural and artistic achievement, beautiful to behold and even better, free. No public transport stops at the Trevi Fountain, but there are bus stops a few minutes walk away and the Metro stop at Barberini, on the orange “A” line, is less than ten minutes travel by foot.
Notable and hard to miss, the Sant’Angelo Castle occupies prime real estate on the banks of the Tiber, almost directly in front of St. Peter’s Basilica. Originally this imposing structure was the mausoleum of the Emperor Hadrian. His ashes were placed inside along with those of relatives and future emperors. The strife visited upon the city by descendent generations saw these bodily remnants scattered to time, but use of the building never went out of fashion.
In succeeding centuries the mausoleum was built into the Aurelian Walls, added onto, reshaped, and used as a prison, castle, fortress, and now museum. Notably, there is a tourist information point just outside where a Roma Pass can be purchased and all sorts of questions can be answered. There are also public toilets available at the base of the castle.
The Park of the Aqueducts
The Park of the Aqueducts is exactly what it sounds like: a park. With aqueducts. Walking trails crisscross the large pedestrian and bike centric green space and many large sections of the ancient water delivery system determine the extent of the park. Olive trees and conifers provide shade and large meadows and grassy fields offer space for myriad activities. The Aqueduct Park is a wonderful, peaceful green space that you can spend hours in, walking, biking, or napping. Groups will be here on school trips or doing tai chi, others simply walking around and observing the ancient aqueducts.
Just across the street from the park is a bike rental named Fuori Di Ruota. We have used this service and the bikes are a great way to leisurely take in the whole park.
The Park of the Appian Way
The Park of the Appian Way is a large urban park not far from the Park of the Aqueducts, but again there are bicycles available for rent. Walking through this park is relaxing and there is ample space for many activities, and you may see soccer, cricket, or picnicking. We observed much of the local wildlife when last we were there, including parakeets, rabbits, and even a herd of sheep with their shepherd.
The Keyhole at the The Priory of the Knights of Malta
There is a marvelous and unique view at the door to the Priory of the Knights of Malta. Looking through the keyhole, you find yourself looking down a gravel avenue lined with trees. In the background and perfectly framed by the arboreal lane, is the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica!
This compound is actually still owned by the Knights of Malta. They don’t go crusading anymore, nor have they been an actively marshal group since leaving their namesake island. Today they are a charitable organization.
This “activity” is free and it is somewhat popular though not to the extent that other, more well known activities like the Coliseum are. This is a positive though, as there should be no line.
The Orange Garden
The Orange Garden, Giardino degli Aranci, is just down the road from the Priory and offers a great view of Rome for free. Gravel pathways border the small park and beautiful orange trees fill in the green spaces, adding a pop of color when the fruit is in season. This is one of our favorite outlooks because it is less crowded, less popular, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist areas, and we can unwind a little bit in a serene and peaceful garden before going out into the world again.
The Monument to Vittorio Emmanuel II is, if summed up in one word, massive. It is a huge, projecting, and modern take on the large scale artworks of antiquity. What it may lack in grace, it makes up for in sheer size. Adorned with nationalistic and artistic touches, it is everything a monument to a man or a country should be, and in all honesty it is an appealing edifice.
The Vittoriano is a large monument to several things at once, but to be brief it is to Italian nationality. Also named the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument in honor of the first king of a united Italy, it features a large bronze sculpture of the man astride a warhorse. On three levels the monument also houses a fire in honor of the Unknown Soldier and a mostly symbolic shrine to the goddess Roma. Located
in front of the always busy Piazza di San Marco, the Vittoriano is free to enter and to ascend the steps, and there is a decent view from the terraces. There is an observation deck that takes you even higher up an elevator, but that will cost €15.
Pyramid of Gaius Cestius
The only remaining pyramid in Rome, the tomb of Gaius Cestius is another of those free, unique, and interesting tidbits you can always find in older cities if you look long enough. Finished sometime around the birth of Christ, possibly 12 BC, the pyramid is well preserved amd has undergone restorations. It can be viewed from the sidewalk next to it, and the inner chamber can be entered but you must make arrangements beforehand.
Although the tomb was built freestanding, it was later incorporated into the Aurelian Walls. Many such structures were included in the then new walls to cut down on cost, materials, and construction times. Very pragmatic those Romans.
The Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps are 135 travertine stone treads leading to the Trinità deli Monti, a Roman Catholic Church. The steps lead up from the Piazza di Spagna, or Spanish Square, so named because it is the home of the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, or the Vatican. The square is famous not only for the steps but also for the fountain at its center which was designed and sculpted by the formidable father and son duo named Bernini. The square was also home at one point to the poet John Keats.
The Piazza and the Spanish Steps are both popular tourist destinations as well as local gathering places. Technically, gathering on the Steps, sitting, or loitering is illegal, though a simple photo op or actually using the steps for their intended purpose is perfectly fine.
The Scala Sancta,
The Scala Sancta, officially the Pontifical Sanctuary of the Holy Stairs, are a popular place to go for devout Roman Catholics as the stairs are reputed to be the very steps Jesus walked on in the home of Pontius Pilate. Whether or not these are the steps from Pilate’s Palace is impossible to tell at this point, and also immaterial to their purpose.
There are 28 marble steps in all. The marble is hidden under wood these days in order to protect the originals, and these stairs can only be traversed on one's knees, to honor the sacrifice of Jesus on behalf of the world. There are other, less important steps leading up to what once was the Sanctum Sanctorum of the Popes in the Archbasilica of Saint John in Laterano. These steps illustrate an important part of Italian and specifically Roman law: extraterritoriality. There are quite a few of these small areas that enjoy exemptions from many Italian laws for the purposes of the Vatican and religious observation.
Vatican City
The Vatican, or Vatican City, holds the current record for smallest country in the world by landmass and population. A trek around its borders would be measured in minutes and it is entirely contained within the borders of not only Italy, but of the city of Rome itself. If you remember your Ancient Greek history you’ll recall hearing a lot about city-states, of which there are only 3 in existence today: Monaco, Singapore, and Vatican City.
Arguably independent for far longer, the Vatican was designated independent under current Italian law in 1929. It is the seat of power for the Roman Catholic Church, is where the Pope resides and preaches, and governs itself, though perhaps differently than other countries do. Part democracy, part theocracy, part monarchy, the Vatican is unusual and intriguing, with a long and secretive history.
Most of the small area of the Vatican is off limits to casual observers and tourists who must make do for the most part with either the Vatican Museums or St. Peter’s Basilica, both of which are vast and awe inspiring both in size and grandeur.
The Vatican Museums, for there are multiple museums under the same governance, charge for admittance and require timed entry. Make sure you adhere to the instructions, if you are too early you will be turned away until the appropriate time.
Finding your way around inside is not necessarily easy at first, so grab a map or make use of the multitudinous tours available. There are many, many treasures in the form of paintings, furniture, sculptures, and jewelry on display. It would take a full day of browsing to take in every room, possibly longer. For a casual observer we suggest a minimum of 3 hours to see the most interesting parts. There is a place to eat inside as well as restrooms, and you will want to make use of the facilities because you cannot enter again after you exit.
The path through the museums is designed so that after wandering through the amassed treasures of ages, you end your day’s labor at one of the seminal works of a time tested master. Famous for its guarded murals and paintings by Michelangelo, the Sistine Chapel lives up to its hype in its execution and scale. The artwork is indeed masterful. Expect crowds at any time of year in the Chapel and indeed in the Vatican Museums as a whole. In the Chapel itself there are no pictures allowed and silence is requested. While you may sneak a picture at your discretion, as we saw several people do, there are stewards in the hall monitoring blatant violations and they reserve the right to remove you and confiscate your devices. Remember that the Vatican is a sovereign country and they absolutely can enforce these directives.
St. Peter’s Basilica is massive. Truly opulent and gigantic in scale. The dome is impressive and inside are statues and paintings worth who knows how much. Prominently on display just inside the entrance is Michelangelo’s Pieta, on a shelf of marble and behind glass. It is difficult to appreciate from the distance imposed on the viewer by the barriers and glass, but even so it is a work that few sculptors in history could conceive and execute. Entry to St. Peter’s is free, unless you want a tour. There are often long lines so we suggest arriving early and starting your day here. It is not always possible to go inside so check events and hours beforehand.
Sports in Rome have a history cemented in ancient times, though the city has moved away from its favorites of gladiatorial combat, chariot racing, and cockfighting. Today, soccer holds the number one spot in the hearts of Romans and Italians in general. There are two large soccer clubs competing in the first division of Italian soccer, Serie A. They are AS Roma and SS Lazio. These two teams are regional rivals and both have long and storied histories in Italian sport.
Soccer isn’t the only professional sport that Romans love. Basketball and volleyball in particular are very popular. Virtus Roma is a professional Roman basketball club which, although having experienced some financial difficulties of late is back up and running. Importantly for visiting basketball lovers, they are playing games spectators can attend.
Sport
Good wine is cheap in Rome. There is no need to break the bank when you can walk in a corner store and walk out with a fantastic bottle of Lambrusco for €3 . Italy boasts some of the best wines in the world and has vineyards all over the country. There will be many a glass you simply won’t be able to find in other countries, so take advantage of your location.
Coffee is similarly available and excellently served. There are bistros and cafes on nearly every block and especially near the tourist destinations. Ordering is as simple as saying what you want; they’ve seen your type before, no need to be elaborate or stress about your pronunciation. You may run into complications if you delve too deep into the sometimes grandiose menus. The confusing combinations of espresso, milk, and water that create the cappuccinos, macchiatos, lattes, and everything else we love can be difficult to convey across a language barrier. Do not try and order a tall vanilla sweet cream cold brew with two extra shots, light ice. Keep it simple, because even straight espresso is going to be delicious.
Gelato is gelato. It is delicious and easy to find. Be wary of the bright and colorful ice cream shops that are close to the popular sites. Those are generally more expensive and of lower quality. The same is true for restaurants. In Rome you can find a McDonalds or a Michelin Star restaurant, and not too far from one another. The middle of the road places close to the tourist attractions will be of lower quality and cost more. The best pasta we had was down an alley, next to nothing famous at all.
Food in Rome
There are many things to do and see in Rome. There are also many different governing bodies, museums, and groups that are authorized to curate, sell tickets, and oversee these many places. This can be confusing. Some of the places you will go are free of charge and some will cost money, some require bookings in advance even if they do not charge, and some require guided tours. These things also change over the years, so you will need to do your research ahead of time, unless you want to waste half your trip just trying to find out HOW to see the things you want to see.
At the bottom of this Travel Guide we have a rundown of the Roma Pass, a city card of the type you may be familiar with that grants access for the bearer to different activities around that city. There is no card or pass that includes every attraction in Rome, but this card has many of the best attractions and allows for use of the public transportation system.
How to Get Around Rome
Trains in Italy are the gold standard of travel and are actually fairly simple. Go to this website, select your options, and look at the results! Be sure to browse times around when you want to depart, because not every route costs the same amount of money, and shorter, quicker routes may even be cheaper.
There are only two companies that operate trains in Italy, Italotreno or Italo for short, and Trenitalia which is the national train line. You will see both of these everywhere and either is fine. Italo only runs high speed trains so you will be using Trenitalia for slower and regional trains. Using the website or app for each is the easiest way to get tickets, though you can print a physical ticket at the train station from a vending machine or at the service desk. We highly suggest planning ahead though, as tickets can run out for certain classes or ticket types and prices for different routes will differ. Planning ahead can save you quite a few Euro.
A popular third party servicer is Omio, which can be used to see both Italo and Trenitalia tickets at the same time. They do charge a 1-3 Euro fee on top of the ticket price, but Italo and Trenitalia will only show their own trains on their sites and apps so it is a good way to filter all of your options. Another option is Italiarail, which is easier to use than Italo or Trenitalia sites or apps, but only offers tickets for Trenitalia.
The Roma Pass
We highly suggest the Roma Pass if you’re going to be in the city for more than a day, and plan on using public transportation. The website for the Roma Pass does not do a good job of concisely stating what is provided with your purchase, but all of the information is there if you take the time to look. The important thing to note is that the metro and bus lines are included for the duration of your pass, which comes in a 48 or 72 hour version. We opted for the 48 hour version and because of our constant movement, the passes paid for themselves in public transportation alone.
They also provide access to many of the most popular sites in the city as well as discounted access after the first major site, or two sites, depending on which option you choose. If you plan your day wisely and want to see the places that are discounted, the passes are a no brainer.
By Bus
Riding the bus is easy, if you know what route to take and bus to get on. Use google maps or your favorite map app for this. Half the time you won’t scan your ticket or Roma pass on the bus, but you should have one anyway in case an agent is checking tickets.
There is a city tax in Rome and her hotels that corresponds to the star rating of the hotel. This can be up to 10 euros per person, per night, at 5 star hotels, and less if the establishment has fewer stars. This tax is not collected for people under 10 years old.
Make sure you take this into account. It is collected in person and separate from your hotel charge, so if you are booking online it may come as a surprise when you arrive that you will owe more money on top of what you saw on your computer.
It is the responsibility of the establishment to collect and report the tax, but sometimes they will not, or will insist that you pay in cash. This is an official and legitimate tax in Rome, so there is no reason you cannot pay with a card. Some places will insist on cash so that they can pocket extra money and manipulate the records. If you are concerned about a scam, make sure you get a receipt.
By Metro
The metro of Rome is in red only easy to use. Similar to the Paris metro, there are ticket vending machines and ticket offices at every stop. Simply purchase a ticket, scan the ticket on the way to the train, and take the appropriate train to your stop. There are maps and guides on the walls at every stop, and you simply need to know which line to take, which direction to go, and which stop to get off at.
Children under the age of 10 ride public transportation for free, but be prepared to show an ID in case of a check onboard. Also, if you are claustrophobic, you’re going to have a bad time. Sometimes the metro is spacious and at other times it is shoulder to shoulder, standing room only. There are seats on all public transport, but consider it a bonus if you get one. Unless you’re going a dozen stops, you may not get one by the time you arrive at your destination.
There are only 3 lines, and they don’t go everywhere, but the same tickets you get in the metro also work for the bus and tram systems. They are all connected. The hard part above ground is knowing what route to take. We suggest google maps or your favorite map application that is plugged into public transport. That will make it easy for you to know which routes to take and stops to use.
All of the metro entrances and exits connect beneath the street, so you don’t need to think too hard.
By Car
Driving in Rome and in all of Italy is similar enough to driving in the US and most other countries that most people will have little trouble adjusting right away. There are a few key differences that you should be aware of before taking the wheel, and knowing these will help you seamlessly merge into Italian driving.
Italians drive on the right side of the road, and from the left side of the car, just like America and opposite of Ireland. So far so good. Speed is determined in kilometers, not miles, so there is our first major difference.
Next, red means stop, always. No turning right on red, or left onto a one way street. Red is red, so stop until it’s green every time.
Cell phone usage while driving is illegal. This may be the case where you live currently but it is not universal, so be aware.
Zona Traffico Limitato, or ZTLs, are areas where you are not supposed to drive because there is a large density of people, it is an urban pedestrian space, or there are buildings or people around that the government has determined would benefit from fewer vehicles due to noise, danger, or pollution.
These areas are designated by a red circle on a white sign and will always have cameras to catch drivers automatically, the fine is usually around 50 euros?. If you see this sign, do not drive in that area! It is difficult at times to know where they will be or to avoid them, given some of the roads in urban areas, but avoid them you most definitely should.
You may see other cars entering the ZTLs, but these vehicles are either local residents who have permission to enter or they are entering illegally. Whatever the case, you as a visitor do not have permission to enter a ZTL with a vehicle. The zones do not prohibit you from moving around on foot though.
We suggest finding good parking and using public transportation in major urban areas in Italy. The cities are eminently walkable, and it is enjoyable to do so. Driving in Rome can be taxing and stressful, so don’t!
Out of the major cities ZTLs are far less common and easier to avoid, so don’t sweat them too much. Plan to avoid them entirely and driving will be a much better experience in Italy.
You do not need an International Driving Permit, a US driver's license will suffice, for up to 12 months. So if you’re visiting and have your license, you’re fine. If you are visiting from another country be sure to check if your license is adequate.
Look here for a map of our favorite places in Rome!