Florence, Italy

Where to Go and What to Do

The inside of the market smells amazing and is where you will find all sorts of local, and non local, foods and similar consumer goods you would expect to find in a farmers market. There are butchers, fruits and vegetables for sale, wine on offer, as well as restaurants and cafes. Since walking around the Market is free, you may as well start here.

Mercato del Porcellino

There is a second market, the Mercato del Porcellino (Piggy Market), which is just as interesting but for a different reason. An open, but covered, market, this one has a special statue called il Porcellino, which means “little pig”. The statue is of a boar, not a pig, and it is tradition to rub its snout to ensure good luck and a return trip to Florence. It is also common to place a coin in its mouth and let it fall through the grate below, for extra luck.

The Loggia Della Signoria, which is also known as the Loggia dei Lanzi, is an open air gallery that holds some impressive sculptures, including the original marble Rape of the Sabines, of which the original plaster mold is on display in the Accademia. Also displayed in the Loggia are a Florentine Lion, Perseus holding the head of Medusa in bronze, and Menelaus with Pericles, amongst others. Most of the statues are originals, making this open pavilion an absolute must for any appreciator of the arts.

Just outside the Loggia in the piazza is the Fountain of Neptune. Far from the only fountain with this theme, this marble likeness of the Roman god has had a rough few centuries since its completion in the mid 1500s, but a restoration finished in 2019 has returned the original Aquaman to his former glory.

Santa Maria del Fiore

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is the premier architectural achievement of the city, standing tall and proud above the surrounding buildings. The noteworthy dome of the church is the largest brick dome ever constructed, and until modern times was the largest dome ever created, period. The Cathedral still counts itself among the largest in Italy, and is a must-see on any visit to Florence.

In the courtyard  of the Cathedral is the Baptistery of San Giovani, or St. John, and Giotto's Campanile, or bell tower. Both are buildings of imposing size and beauty.

The Baptistery is among the very oldest buildings in Florence, with the current building having been consecrated in 1059, but with previous construction dating centuries further back, though it is unclear to what year exactly. It is likely there were Roman walls or perhaps a temple on the same spot, but no definitive evidence has been discovered.

The building is composed of eight equal sides, making it an octagon, but not one we are likely to see any UFC competition a on any time soon. 

Museums

Florence is a metropolis of art. The Renaissance was born, nurtured, and bloomed in this city and the results of that support of the arts hundreds of years ago can be seen simply by taking a stroll through its streets. The very architecture displays the taste and style that was born in this Tuscan town.

Florence holds within its bounds the highest concentration of Renaissance art you can expect to find anywhere on Earth, much of it in just a handful of museums.

Galleria degli Uffizi

The Galleria degli Uffizi, or Uffizi Gallery, is the most visited museum in Italy, and for good reason. Uffizi means “offices“ in Italian. When originally constructed, the Uffizi was simply a project commissioned by Cosimo de Medici to combine many of the office buildings used to administer the city’s workings into one, larger complex. Today it houses a staggering amount of Italian paintings and Renaissance works of art, including the Birth of Venus, by Botticelli.

Another notable work among notable works, is the only known freestanding painting of Michelangelo, Doni Tondo. In other words, it is the only known painting of his that can be moved, as opposed to his frescoes in the Sistine Chapel, which would be very difficult to move. While it is likely he painted other works, given his immense skill, they are lost to the ages as far as we know.

It is a little known fact that the Mona Lisa hung in the Uffizi for a short time, after it was stolen from France in 1911. The museum worker responsible had taken the painting from Paris to Florence, and after his apprehension an exhibition was arranged to display several of Leonardo da Vinci’s works all together in his homeland. The Mona Lisa then traveled to Rome, after which it returned to its home in the Louvre.

If you are into scavenger hunts, there are actually three large statues of David in the city; the original, a stone replica, and a bronze cast. It is good fun to search them out and you can easily walk to each in under an hour, if you hurry. We suggest you take your time however, because there are plenty of things to see on the way from each one.

One of these nude Hebrew kings is at the Piazza Vecchio, one is at the Piazza Michelangelo, and the original is the only one indoors, at the  Accademia Galleria.

The gardens of Florence are numerous and beautiful. There are free terraced gardens around the Piazzale Michelangelo which are lovely to walk, and the view of Florence from the piazza is one of the best in the city. Overlooking the river, with the dome of the Duomo prominent and the mountains in the background, it is hard to beat for the price. Immediately below the plaza is the Iris Garden, which is exactly what it sounds like, very well done and full of Irises of all kinds.

There are roads and paths leading to the Piazzale Michelangelo, but it is uphill. If you have mobility issues or are in a wheelchair, it is possible to walk or roll there but it may be a challenge. Ubers, taxis, and buses do stop nearby if needed.

Another point of interest is the Ponte Vecchio, literally the Old Bridge. The oldest bridge in Florence, it was the only crossing in the city spared destruction during World War II. Today the bridge is open to pedestrian traffic only and serves not only as a river crossing but as the foundations for many buildings and businesses, mostly jewelry stores.

Florence is home to some of the best gelato anywhere in Italy, and it is hard to go wrong as you are spoiled for choice. The best gelato we have ever had anywhere, period, was at La Strega Nocciola, which in English means the Hazel Witch. Served in the traditional manner, this gelato is the best in the world, and comes highly recommended from the Gilded Gosling team.

A close second, and always a quality choice no matter what city you are in, is Grom. Found in Florence, Rome, Venice, Milan, and even outside of Italy these days, Grom had good gelato (and an excellent affagato) for a chain.

There is a curious facet of the Florentine food scene that reflects the nature if the drive-through liquor stores of Ohio, but in a much classier fashion, Wine windows are little alcoves where a pedestrian can walk up and order a glass of Tuscany’s finest. Florence has nearly 300 of these delightful vendors, with the majority spread through the old town. Simply walk up, order a glass, pay, drink, and leave! A simple, bespoke, and delightful offering for tourist and local alike.

Soccer is the major sport in Italy and Florence is no different. ACF Fiorentina plays in Serie A, the premier league of Italian soccer. Originally founded in 1926, there are few teams who have spent more time at the top, though they have only won the league title twice. They play at the Stado Artemio Franchi, less than two miles from the Galleria dell’Accademia, and we highly suggest that if you have not attended a match in Italy, that you do so if you have the chance. Tickets are not expensive and the experience is exciting and informative about Italian culture.

Notable People from Florence

Known as the Birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence was the home of many of the most famous artists, painters, and sculptors who ever lived. Some were born there, some moved there as children, and some were drawn by the fame of other artists and the largess and patronage of the Medici family. None were more famous however, than the Ninja Turtles.

Though none of the original artists would have known about ninjutsu or the 1987 television show beloved by many today, those people who spent their afternoons or Saturday mornings watching TMNT will surely have learned about these eminent artists in school or on their own after watching them hang shell with ol’ Master Splinter.

Though Michelangelo lived most of his life in Rome, the skilled sculptor was born in Florence and wrote that he considered himself to be a Florentine. It is no surprise that some of his early works, and some of his most popular, reside in his birth city.

Donatello is another Florentine, sculptor, ninja turtle, and teacher who made his name creating some of the greatest works of art to come from the Renaissance. Working for rich patrons such as the Medici family, he created statues in stone and bronze, wood and clay, and even worked in glass.

Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino, now known simply as Raphael, was a prodigious and proliferate painter with an extraordinary amount of work to his name despite his early death at the age of 37. He ran a large workshop and his assistants counted some of the best, but lesser known, artists of the day. He was a favorite of the papal court and left excellent work in the then papal apartments, which are now a part of the Vatican Museums.

Leonardo da Vinci needs no introduction for most. The inventor, sculptor, write, and painter embodied the modern phrase “Renaissance Man“, because he could do it all. What’s more, rather than being a jack-of-all-trades Leonardo was a master of most. More nomadic than the others three artists just mentioned, he spent time in and out of Florence, and would have been considered to be Milanese.

The Medici name should be familiar from history class, or if not that than the popular television show, “Medici”. The importance of the family itself to the history of Florence is not possible to overstate, nor is its importance to the Renaissance and European culture. The Western world and how it developed was shaped in no small way because of the art, thought, and science that was allowed to develop in the Florentine Republic and the city of Florence.

It is little wonder dozens of books, television shows, and movies have centered around this eminent family. For centuries they dominated the political life in Florence and at times held power in Italy and reached far outside of it through the church. Though the included in their ranks dukes, popes, bankers, French queens, and merchants, the Medici are most important to the casual traveler today because of their patronage of the arts and the rich mark left on Florence and Italy.

Niccolo Machiavelli is another prominent Florentine, politician, philosopher, and writer of the political commentary, The Prince. There is not much in the way of reference to the man in the city, but he was born in Florence and called it home. Perhaps advising his Prince that being hated was better than being loved did not endear him to the people down the ages.

The famous poet and writer Dante Alighieri was born in Florence in 1265, much to the delight and chagrin of literature students the world over. His Divine Comedy has influenced academics and amateurs of all kinds for centuries, and entertained many laymen besides. Dante lived in his home city for many years, even serving as city prior for a time. Due to the incessant warfare and politics of Italy in his day, Dante was eventually exiled from the city and spent 7 years, off and on again, in Verona, Italy (See our guide to Verona here).

Though technically born in Pisa, that small city was under the control of what was then the Duchy of Florence, so Galileo is considered to be a Florentine. The scientist performed much of his work in Tuscany as well as the Republic of Venice, working in the cities of Padua and Venice. We have this man to thank for much work in the progress on the way to the modern telescope, microscope, and way we understand all we can see in outer space.

How to Get Around, When to Go

The name of the train station closest to the old town is Firenze Santa Maria Novella, and if you are arriving by train and only spending time in the old city, then you will be just fine getting around on foot. Florence is by no means a massive city for tourists, but if you are looking to get outside of the vicinity of the train station, there are a few options. Be sure to inquire with your accommodation about transportation as well, many hosts and hotels have options of their own or know the best way to get from point A to point B.

Taxis will be the most expensive, but possibly the most convenient way to get around. We are going to include Uber and Sixt with the taxis, for the sake of brevity.

Buses are the best way to move cheaply around Florence. The tickets will be inexpensive and there are many buses running all day, to all parts of the city. They will be the best bet for the roving tourist. Tickets for the buses are available at the train station, and can also be used for the tram system. There is a limited tram network in Florence, and while operable it is mostly concerned with the local population, and not so much with the needs of tourists. While it may grow to become a tool of visiting travelers, it will be useful only on a case by case basis for most tourists.

If you came into town by car, you should be just fine if you remember the ZTLs. These endearing sections of Italian roadway mean restricted driving, and restricted to those who have previously been granted a pass to drive in them. It is unlikely that you as a tourist will be able to use a vehicle in the ZTLs legally, so avoid them at all costs. Assume every one has a camera, because most of them do, and there is a fine and probably a fee from your rental car company if you drive in the restricted zones. It is important to mention that the occasional zone will be drivable at certain times of day, but we suggest not taking a chance. Make sure to look beforehand if your accommodation is in or near one of these zones and communicate with your proprietor about parking and driving.

All other common road rules in Italy apply in Florence and you should not notice much of a difference getting around here than anywhere else in the country.

The weather is pleasant from Spring well into Fall, or April until October, and the busiest months are June to September. When it is busy, it is very busy, so be prepared for lines if you come to Florence in July. Also prepare for heat as highs can reach into the 90s Fahrenheit, and the nearest beach is over an hour away by train. If you like a little more space, fewer lines, and sweaters, March is lovely. There may be some rain but it will be cooler and there will be far fewer people.

The Firenzecard is the cultural city card of Florence, much like the Roma Pass or the Chicago City Pass. The Firenzecard grants access to over 60 museums in the city, including the Accademia and the Uffizi, though those two require reservations. The card lasts for 72 hours from activation, which occurs when you visit your first museum with the card. It does not include any other perks like public transportation, so at €85 per card it is not a deal for one day. It costs the same whether you buy it in person or online, so if you’re gong to purchase, do so ahead of time so you’re not wasting precious vacation time. You can use the card through an app on your phone or take your confirmation voucher from your email to pick up a physical card.

Look at a map of our favorite places in Florence!